Bluefields is the major town closest to the cays. It has a population of 30,000 and the cays can be reached from there by speed boat in approximate 1hr and 15 min. Every night is party night during May in Bluefields. The Maypole festival includes costumed dancers, steel drums, loudspeakers. People dance around the maypole tree, a tradition that started in Jamaica. All the energy of Carnival is revived in the islands between the 6-16 of October, and that is also the birthday of Bluefields. Do not forget to try the “Flor de cana” (Flower of the sugar cane) the Nicaraguan rum. It is one of the best and relatively inexpensive (US$ 3-4 for a big bottle). The coconut bread is excellent and you can take it with you to the cays since it stays fresh longer.

Hotel South Atlantic II (the one close to the water) is the best hotel to stay in Bluefields. It has TV, air condition, and also a good restaurant with sea view. Floatante is another good restaurant on the water. It specializes in fresh seafood plus other favorites, with a bar playing music at night.

TRIP TO THE CAYS

To get to the cays one can pass through the river that connects the lagoon in Bluefiellds with Pearl lagoon. This is an enjoyable trip through the river where you can see a variety of tropical trees and birds. Mahogany, mangrove and balsa trees can be seen here. The Pearl lagoon is the second biggest in Latin America and very productive in fauna like shrimps and snook fish.

Pearl Lagoon is a town of 1,000 people across from the cays. There, one can find groceries, basic necessities and gas. Its people are friendly and they treat you like they have been know you for years. It received its name because when the moon shines, the water looks like it is decorated with thousands of little pearls.

THE CAYS

From the cays one can see Set Net, a Miskito village of 200 people. The cays are only 3 miles from the main coast. The mainland across from and around the islands is a low populated area full of lush vegetation, rivers and a variety of parrots, macaws, iguanas, monkeys, crocodiles, jaguars, ocelots and deer. Americans and Europeans sometimes have these animals as their favorite companions (pets).

There are about 18 cays in front of Pearl lagoon. Most of them belong to the local communities. The ones that are private were occupied by people that used the cays to grow copra from the coconuts in the late 1800’s. Some of these private cays were once sold to private parties from the Miskito King G. Augustos Fedrick himself. All the cays are coral formations with a lot of marine life around them. The 3 cays that are for sale, have superb white sand beaches and surrounded by coral reef. Since there are no structures on the cays, visitors enjoy camping under the shade of the coconut trees.

There is always a cool breeze in the cays that cools the warm tropical climate. Typically the west side of these cays is the calmer size with more beaches, where small vessels can land. The east side is where there is more breezes and more coral reef. The area is full of fish lobster and shrimp. Local fisherman pass through these 3 cays on their way to the outer cays to do commercial fishing. Lobster can be bought locally from the fishermen. They usually stationed at the outer cays like Savannah cay or at Pearl lagoon town.

The 3 private cays (Grape, Crawl, Babboon) are protected by other cays in front of them and by the outer reef that breaks the waves. The oldest existing map on these islands is the one made by US Corps of Engineers in 1933. The islands have been inhabited for at least 200 years. Of course nobody lives in these islands now.

All tropical fruits like pineapple, mango, papaya and of course coconut grow in these cays. There is a lot of mango production along the Caribbean coast. The Nicaraguan mango tastes fresh, juicy and soft and there is a plenty of them for 10 cents each. Babbon cay also has cashew trees and visitors can enjoy tasting them.

The last time we visited the cays we hired a cook for about $5 a day. The first day we tasted fresh snook, the second day Caribbean lobster, and the third day jumbo shrimp. For dinner we had grilled snapper that we fished ourselves.

Jumbo size fresh shrimp (camarones) is plenty here and is cooked with tomato sauce (entomatado), breaded (empanizado) and served with rice, beans and plantanas.

There are no predators in the cays and life is very easy slow and relaxing with no worries. At night we can watch the soldier crabs with a flash light. They are not larger than two inches, crawling slowly and carrying their heavy shell, like sea snails looking for food. The quiet nights you can hear the smooth sound of the ocean lapping on the beach and watch the shiny stars above the warm clear Caribbean moonlit sky.

In the morning we looked at the coconut trees when we saw the group of pelicans that live in these islands basking in the sun. Specifically, Crawl cay has a group of about 12 pelicans that live there.

The aroma of fresh coffee completed our wake up, since Nicaragua is a major producer of coffee.

Occasionally, maybe once a year, a sea turtle may try to nest in these cays if nobody tries to eat its eggs. There is a lot of green sea turtle, nesting north of the cays in Sandy bay, (In Nicaragua) and south of the cays in La Crusero (In Costa Rica).

Snorkeling is excellent in these cays. On one dive around crawl cay we saw manta ray small baracuda, and thousands of pretty coral fish that live permanently in these islands. A small green turtle watched us snorkeling and slowly moved away without being bothered by our presence. Many varieties of coral, like starlet, sea-fan, brain, sea plum and boulder make underwater look like a colorful garden. Thousands of pretty coral fish like angel fish, parrot fish, and puffer fish make the sea bottom look like a giant colorful natural aquarium. Big crabs along with star fish contribute to the magical beauty of the spectacular sea bottom.

When tired from snorkeling and full from lunch we rested on our hammocks swaying between two coconut trees. These hand made hammocks are relatively inexpensive to buy, like everything else in Nicaragua. They are more than a convenience item. They are articrafts with pretty colors and hand made from mahogany wood. The local communities can build mahogany furniture wood that lasts a long time, has superb quality and completes the ideal island living picture.

In the afternoon we walked around Babboon cay and collected shells along the beach, a gift from the Caribbean sea. Conch shells and hundreds of other can be collected to decorate your living room or be hung around your neck as a souvenir of your dream visit to the cays.

Each cay has its own personality: The best feature of GRAPE CAY (2.5 acres) is its beautiful natural wide white sand beach (1560 ft), that is completely encircling the oval shape island. The many tall majestic coconut palms are a true indication of fresh sweet water. This cay can adapt perfectly as a personal residential estate.

CRAWL CAY (5.0 acres) is a half moon shaped cay that gives the most beach per coastline acre. A family of about 15 pelicans live in this cay and they welcome every visitor. The island has a nice grassy area at it’s north end that can be used for camping and recreation. The west end has a calm sheltered bay for boat anchorage. Abundant coconut palms delight the senses.

BABBOON CAY (15.0 acres) is the largest, widest and highest island, ideal for nature lovers. Many papaya and cashew trees grow here. Colorful fish, tide pools, as well as a vast supply of sea shells exists everywhere to be collected. Lush coconut palm trees complete the naturalists’ image of the perfect tropical island.

EPILOGUE